Ways to remove a rusty bolt

[BigTwinky]

I have a bike rack on the back of my car hooked to a hitch. Last year, I forgot to remove the stabilizing bolt that is typically tightened after putting the rack in to ensure that it doesn’t sway from left to right.

So after a fall, winter and spring here in Montreal, the thing is totally rusted. I need to remove it to put the rack back in and be able to properly tighten it.

I am planning on buying some CLR (haha) and soaking a rag in it. I then plan on putting the rag around the bolt and let it sit for an hour or so. This should make the CLR get in the rust. I’m hoping this will be enough to loosen it a bit.

Brute force did not work.

I’ve heard of lemon juice, but thought that CLR would be best.

Any other tips?

[Premonition]

I had a toilet bolt like that, i dremeled off and replaced. A dremeli might seem excessive, but if you can replace the bolt it might be a option incase it starts to strip.

Not sure on any tips though to loosen it up.

[Duke{CLR}]

I had to remove some tie rod bolts not too long ago and I used this stuff called PB Penetrating catalyst. I beat them with a hammer first to break the rust then I sprayed them with this stuff. Also make sure you use a closed wrench or socket as opposed to an open end wrench. You can also put a pipe over you wrench to make it a bit longer for more torque. Watch those knuckles. :D

[Sirex]

You have WD40 over there?

That works well for stuff like that.

Failing that put the socket bit on a hammer drill adapter and force it out :twisted:

thats more fun but more chance of breaking something.... drill or bolt.

IF you have WD40 give it a try.

[Smoking]

I was going to say WD40 also. thats some great stuff, just make sure it sits there for a min or so before u start to remove it

[jaspurr]

Yep, if WD40 does not work for me it's the hacksaw or a powertool. :2thumbs: I have used that stuff on anchor shackles that have been used in the sea for year and gotten them off.

[paceman]

As others said, WD40. And let it soak. Then a socket or boxed end wrench. Open ended wrench will have that bolt rounded off real quick.

[tigershilone]

WD-40 is good, but even better are two different penetrating oils brands, the first is GreenStreak, but is ususally limited to commercial ops, but it is the absolute best. The second is Kroil and can be found in some hardware stores. Both are excellent penetrating oils and you should let any penetrating oil set on parts for at least and hour prior to attempted removal. Use a box end wrench or socket with a"flank drive" that exerts pressure on the center of the flats of the bolt as opposed to the edges of the bolt surface, this will reduce the chance of rounding the edges. Good luck.

Tiger_Shilone

[Apache Warrior]

Kroil works great and it you can't find it, Liquid Wrench is good too.
Apache

[BigTwinky]

*takes out pen and paper and gets ready for a trip to the hardware store(s)

Thanks for the tips.

Lets hope I dont have to saw it off.

[KJHenf]

WD40 +5 I think it is now :D

[Apache Warrior]

Penetrating oil works better than WD40. WD40 evaporates to easily.
Apache

[CrplCupcakes]

WD-40 is a lubricant.
You need this stuff. It is a penetrating catalyst specially made for removing rusty and corroded nuts and bolts. My bud is a mechanic and they keep this stuff in the shop at all times.
Ask for 'PB Blaster'.

http://www.pbblaster.com/store/images/PBCatalyst.gif

[drunken_chef]

i use that too =)

on a side note. if you have a broken off bolt a left handed drill bit will usually take it out without any lube.

[mapes]

My experience with spray on looseners has been less than stellar. I reccomend going and buying an impact wrench....no not the air type impact wrench but the mechcanial type that you hit with a hammer. Basicly the idea is for so much downward force 1/10 of it twists to the left. They work awesome. Most have standard or philps bits and 3/8 socket adapters...worth thier wieght in gold they are! They only cost like 10 bucks too.

[Duke{CLR}]

WD-40 is a lubricant.
You need this stuff. It is a penetrating catalyst specially made for removing rusty and corroded nuts and bolts. My bud is a mechanic and they keep this stuff in the shop at all times.
Ask for 'PB Blaster'.

http://www.pbblaster.com/store/images/PBCatalyst.gif

THATS the stuff I used and referenced on my post here. It worked great! I was goin to post a pic but the batteries in my camera were fried. LOL

[BigTwinky]

Your guys rawk!
Merci

[Duke{CLR}]

Too bad you don't live any closer I could let you use my can. :D

[paceman]

My experience with spray on looseners has been less than stellar. I reccomend going and buying an impact wrench....no not the air type impact wrench but the mechcanial type that you hit with a hammer. Basicly the idea is for so much downward force 1/10 of it twists to the left. They work awesome. Most have standard or philps bits and 3/8 socket adapters...worth thier wieght in gold they are! They only cost like 10 bucks too.
Forgot about that. I have one and I so rarely use it. But it's worth it's in gold when you need it.

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/impact_wrench.jpg

[CrplCupcakes]

WD-40 is a lubricant.
You need this stuff. It is a penetrating catalyst specially made for removing rusty and corroded nuts and bolts. My bud is a mechanic and they keep this stuff in the shop at all times.
Ask for 'PB Blaster'.

http://www.pbblaster.com/store/images/PBCatalyst.gif

THATS the stuff I used and referenced on my post here. It worked great! I was goin to post a pic but the batteries in my camera were fried. LOL

I just googled 'PB Blaster' and posted a pick from the web

[BigTwinky]

Too bad you don't live any closer I could let you use my can. :D

hehe

Well, I bought it, tried it, and its still stuck on there nice and tight. I tried a few times, letting the stuff sit in there for a while and still nothing.

My neighbor might have some fancy tools, he is a mechanic. But he's on his honeymoon for another 2 weeks.

Arg.

[Duke{CLR}]

Too bad you don't live any closer I could let you use my can. :D

hehe

Well, I bought it, tried it, and its still stuck on there nice and tight. I tried a few times, letting the stuff sit in there for a while and still nothing.

My neighbor might have some fancy tools, he is a mechanic. But he's on his honeymoon for another 2 weeks.

Arg.

Whack it with a hammer to break the rust then spray that stuff on there. You may need to let it sit overnight. Good luck it sound like a PITA.

[mapes]

My experience with spray on looseners has been less than stellar. I reccomend going and buying an impact wrench....no not the air type impact wrench but the mechcanial type that you hit with a hammer. Basicly the idea is for so much downward force 1/10 of it twists to the left. They work awesome. Most have standard or philps bits and 3/8 socket adapters...worth thier wieght in gold they are! They only cost like 10 bucks too.
Forgot about that. I have one and I so rarely use it. But it's worth it's in gold when you need it.

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/impact_wrench.jpg

See that picture.....go and buy that. It will remove the nut and not damage anything else. I used it to split the cases of a 1966 yamaha two stroke (steel screws into aluminum threads) That sat outside for over 40 years. Penetrating oil didn't work even left soaking over night. The impact tool made the job effortless. True story. Oh BTW when your at the H/W store pivking up your nice new impact tool also by some anti sieze compound. You rub it on the threads and the bolt won't stick. It prevets the chemical reaction of steel and aluminum. Most people use it on spark plug threads.

[{CLR} Naillik]

Use a hammer :)

[Starfire]

A sure-fire solution is heat...but it depends on whether or not there is rubber parts nearby. When the penetrating solutions(all of the above are great) fail, take your torch and heat up the bolt until it's nearly red. It will squeak a bit when turning but will come off nicely. Heating it breaks down the oxidizing bonding.

[Smoking]

A sure-fire solution is heat...but it depends on whether or not there is rubber parts nearby. When the penetrating solutions(all of the above are great) fail, take your torch and heat up the bolt until it's nearly red. It will squeak a bit when turning but will come off nicely. Heating it breaks down the oxidizing bonding.

I had to use a blow torch on a 30 year old snow blower snow cutter bolt
mainly because it sat out side for 30 years and nothing would take it off, i had to probably try everything. i even ordered a special lub like PB buster, i forget the name and it weighed more then 130lbs, so i couldn't exactly "soak"
it in anything. i wouldn't recommend a blow torch if its near the
car at all. like more then 10in away

[jaspurr]

Use a hammer :)

Sounds like my tool box, Hammer, Bigger Hammer and even Bigger Hammer :D

[Duke{CLR}]

Use a hammer :)

Sounds like my tool box, Hammer, Bigger Hammer and even Bigger Hammer :D

That along with some duct tape and tie wraps and you have a complete set of tools. :D

[jaspurr]

Use a hammer :)

Sounds like my tool box, Hammer, Bigger Hammer and even Bigger Hammer :D

That along with some duct tape and tie wraps and you have a complete set of tools. :D

Darn, how did I forget those basics :oops:

[MulletRacer]

a craftsman ratchet with a breaker bar and let some of that oil sit on there or.apply heat to it it works 95% of the time And should come off ive pulled some bolts off of some stuff at work like 400degree seized up bolts cause idiots dont know how to use anti seize :pissed:

[mapes]

a craftsman ratchet with a breaker bar and let some of that oil sit on there or.apply heat to it it works 95% of the time And should come off ive pulled some bolts off of some stuff at work like 400degree seized up bolts cause idiots dont know how to use anti seize :pissed:


Anti sieze is kkey for heat applications!

[ViTO]

First go with the Mech. Impact Wrench....

If THAT doesn't work, Star is correct heat will cure your problem for sure.
Be mindful of your surrounding parts of course.

I once watch someone burn out an exhaust and get the floor board so hot it started a fire in interior :shock: DOH !! whats that burning rug smell ?!?! :shock:

[ArcLight]

The flame wrench cures all.


Torch, that is.

[Duke{CLR}]

:bump:

Whats the status of the rusty nut?

[darth_nevus]

I once watch someone burn out an exhaust and get the floor board so hot it started a fire in interior :shock: DOH !! whats that burning rug smell ?!?! :shock:


been there, done that. exactly that. i lit a bedliner on my wife's uncles truck on fire that way. good thing he didn't care about it anyways!

could be worse, her cousin forgot to remove a rubber bed liner in his truck, and when he tried to cut a whole through the bed to run his pipes to stacks. poof!


i always use heat on rusted bolts if an impact wrench doesn't work.

[pigworthy]

A agree with Starfire, Put penetrating oil on it, let it sit in it over night, If you can submerge it in it is best. Then heat in up with a torch, if you can.


Fire! Fire! :flamer: :evilfire:

[BigTwinky]

Simply to follow up on the thread, heat worked. Put a torch to it and it came out.

:2thumbs:

[paceman]

I just got my latest issue of Popular Mechanics and it suggested wrapping a rag around what ever has the rust on it, and then soaking the rag with Coke. Apparently the carbolic acid in Coke is great at destroying rust.

[Apache Warrior]

I just got my latest issue of Popular Mechanics and it suggested wrapping a rag around what ever has the rust on it, and then soaking the rag with Coke. Apparently the carbolic acid in Coke is great at destroying rust.
And bones.
Apache

[mapes]

I just got my latest issue of Popular Mechanics and it suggested wrapping a rag around what ever has the rust on it, and then soaking the rag with Coke. Apparently the carbolic acid in Coke is great at destroying rust.
And bones.
Apache

Jeezz Apache your freaking me out...


Don't forget to fear a man who has 16 hungry pigs as well....

[Apache Warrior]

I actually meant from drinking soft drinks. :D
Apache